Free Pattern: Nettie Hat

April 18, 2010

NettieHat1

Inspired by the Felicity Hat designed by Brooklyn based crafty queen Wanett Clyde, I am presenting to you the Nettie Hat.

Special thanks to Wanett Clyde for granting me permission to publish the Nettie Hat for free here on Getting Purly With It. Wannet’s Ravelry name is “Nettie” and to honor her I named this hat after her!

The Nettie Hat is an easy stockinette stitch based hat which I offer you in two different versions. (Scroll all the way down to get to PDF files.)

Nettie Hat Version 1 is knit in the round using US5 and US7 circular 16″ (yarn used in this picture Malabrigo Silk/Merino):

NettieHat7

And Nettie Hat Version 2 is knitted flat using US7 circular 24″. This version has a fun element to it: ruching which bunches up at the base of the hat (yarn used in this picture Madeline Tosch DK):

NettieHat8

How to create the ruches

I think the Nettie Hat version 1 is pretty straightforward; in the round, decreasing for top, and there you have your hat.

Nettie Hat version 2 might need a mini picture tutorial, so here we go!

Version 2 is knitted flat and after you are done with decreasing for the top, and you have threaded the remaining stitches and fastened it off, your piece should look like this:

NettieHat4

In the above picture my piece is laying flat to dry because I wet blocked it. I always wet block my pieces, you don’t have to if you don’t want to.

Wet blocking is optional but I have to say, it does eliminate somewhat the curling of the edges since this piece is knitted in stockinette stitch.

Seam the sides of hat together using the mattress stitch aka invisible seam stitch:

NettieHat5 NettieHat6

If you don’t know how to do the mattress stitch, go to Knittinghelp.com, click on their “tips” tab, scroll down until you hit “mattress stitch” and watch the video.

Once it is seamed, bunch up your hat by pushing the end up along the your seamed tail:

NettieHat7

How far to bunch it up is all up to you. Do a little bit, see how you like it and if you want some more ruching, go ahead and bunch it up some more.

I like the outcome of Nettie Hat version 2:

Photo 60

NettieHat NettieHat2

The many different yarns I used for the Nettie Hat

This hats needs 140 yards of  light worsted weight or heavy DK weight yarn.

So far I have used the following yarns:

Venezia worsted by Cascade, Malabrigo Silk Merino, Madeline Tosh DK, and Cotton/Bamboo by Classic Elite.

I think it is especially nice when you use somewhat slouchy fiber such as silks, cotton, bamboo mercerized cotton, rayon. Great since we are heading into warmer weather!

And now for the PDF files!

Click on the links below to get the PDF files of your Nettie Hat:

Nettie Hat Version 1

Nettie Hat Version 2

I am leaving you with a slide show of all the yarns I used to make the Nettie Hat.

Have fun with your Nettie Hat! Wheeeeee!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

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Free Pattern: Miss Jenni Shawl

April 4, 2010

DSC_0017

A luscious Feather and Fan Shawl, knitted with two different yarns held together.

You are going to knit two identical pieces which are later on joined with the three needle bind off technique.

The main body consists of the Feather and Fan pattern stitch, however with a slight variation.

In this post you will find:

  1. Picture tutorial
  2. How to wear your Miss Jenni Shawl
  3. Pdf file with pattern Miss Jenni Shawl (scroll all the way down)

The material: two dainty yarns

FSB7

For my Miss Jenni Shawl, I am using two balls of Kidsilk Haze by Rowan (color 627) and two balls of Lace Merino Silk by Karabella (color 7211).

My favorite customer at Closeknit called Sharon, who became my dear friend, gave me the inspiration to work with these beautiful reds!

These two yarns combined together make for a very chique effect.

With one strand of Kidsilk Haze and one strand of Lace Merino Silk held together, cast on 56 stitches.

OSFF5

Make two identical pieces!

Make your first Feather and Fan piece. Do not cast off but put it aside on a needle holder or spare 24″ circ. needle.

OSFF11

Now start your second piece:

OSFF9

Where to stop within the pattern

I will instruct you to stop within the pattern after row 8, which is a wrong side row. Do row 8, and stop right there. If you turn your work around, it should look like this:

Three needle bind off2

I will have you stop right there for the sake of symmetry; it will line up perfectly with the three needle bind off and I like how it looks.

Getting ready for the three needle bind off

When you are ready for the three needle bind off, make sure the Right Sides of your two identical pieces, face each other:

Three needle bind off6

Align your two pieces neatly and you are ready to do join the pieces together:

Three needle bind off7 Three needle bind off8

Some useful tips for binding off

My working needle in this project is an Addi Turbo lace circ. needle.

I love working with those, but I dislike binding off with it because it is quite slippery. So I change everything to my wooden needles to bind off.

Three needle bind off9

Also, to bind off I use a needle size that is one size bigger than my working needle. Since my working needle is a US8, I am using a US9 to bind off.

I do this because the three needle bind off can be quite sturdy and tight. To relax it a bit, I am throwing the US9 needle in the mix.

Three needle bind off and its effect

Three needle bind off10

You are ready to do the three needle bind off.

If you have never done this before, go the cast off section of knittinghelp.com, scroll all the way down and see how Amy Finlay does it.

Afterwards, your piece should look like this:

Three needle bind off11

And all laid out it should look like this from the wrong side:

Three needle bind off12

And like this from the right side:

Three needle bind off13

Wetblocking and drying

Three needle bind off16

This part is optional…

I always wet block my pieces and lay them flat to dry. I soak my piece in luke warm water, with a drop of Eucalan.

After blocking, I lay my piece to dry peacefully on my drying rack:

Three needle bind off15

I love how the stitches are all evened out after blocking. Looks neat and tidy!

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Besides that, my shawl grew about 7″ after I blocked it. I like that!

How to wear your Miss Jenni Shawl

You can wear your Miss Jenni Shawl for a night out over a dress or you can wear it casual.

Loop it around your neck and have the ends hanging down at the front:

DSC_0012

Or wear it like in previous picture but make a knot in front:

3

Or throw one end over your shoulder so it is visible from the back:

2 6

Or fold your piece double, put it around your neck, and pull both end through loop:

DSC_0035

Very special thanks to my friend Chris Tolomei from the blog alice thelma for taking such wonderful pictures of me and my Miss Jenni Shawl!!!

Great photography job, Chris!

And now for the pdf file for the Miss Jenni Shawl!

DSC_0017

This shawl is named after my dear friend Miss Jenni.

She is a sweetheart and loves the Feather and Fan stitch.

Love you much sweet Miss Jenni, this one is dedicated to you…

For the pdf file, click on the link below:

Miss Jenni Shawl

Enjoy and Happy Easter!!!

Previous posts about this project:

Old Shale aka Feather and Fan

Yay for three needle bind off!


Free Pattern: Seed Stitch Cowl with Colinette Point 5

September 24, 2008

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I was playing around with some huge yarn called Colinette Point 5 and needle size US#19 and showed it to my co-worker Adrienne. She was immediately interested in the yarn, purchased some and two days later she presented me her version which you can see in the pictures. Sweet!

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Unlike me, Adrienne chose to work with needle size #17 because she wanted a more dense and closer knit cowl. Seeing her cowl made me change to needle #17 too!

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Allthough this very thick and thin yarn is totally out of my comfort zone, I have to admit that I really like it. The seed stitch gives it a very textural look and all the bright colors will surely liven up a dark winters day. Me like…

The pattern: all it takes is seed stitch!

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I just finished one cowl and purchased some big buttons at Ewe Can Knit in Pittsburgh, PA to go with it and I am very satisfied with the way it turned out. I had so much fun making the cowl that I took some bright blue Colinette point 5 with me to make another one!

Are you ready? Let’s go:

Yarn: Just one skein of Colinette Point 5 Super Bulky
Needle size: US 17
Gauge: 7.5 stitches over 4 inches measured over seed stitch

Step 1:

With needle size US #17, cast on 15 stitches:

wias8

Step 2:

Row 1) K1 and then (P1, K1) till end of row

Step 3:

Repeat row 1 every row untill there are 60 inches of yarn left:

wias12

Step 4:

Cast of loosely and sew on 3 or 5 buttons at one side of your cowl. Just make sure that the buttons are not too big. If they are too big, than you will have to make buttonholes. I chose buttons that are just the right size so I that I did not have to make button holes. Just try if you can push the buttons in between the stitches easily and you will be fine.

Weave in all ends. How easy was that???? And so quick!!!! It took me and Andrienne only 2 hours to complete our projects.

Choosing the right buttons

I don’t know about you but my buttons have got to be just the right buttons!

As you can see in the very first picture, Adrienne decided to work with 3 very large buttons. Because they were a bit too large, Adrienne made button holes.

Me on the other hand, I am far too lazy to make button holes. So I picked up three buttons that are large but also narrow enough to push through my stitches.

wias3

You may not see it in the picture in which I am wearing the blue colored cowl, but there are no buttons. I am still on the hunt for just the right buttons for my blue cowl. I might decide to work with 3 large ones, or I might decide to work with 5 smaller ones.

How to wear your Super Bulky Seed Stitch Cowl?

You can button your cowl all the way up and simply burry your face in it and pull it up to cover your ears. Oh heavens when the cold really hits you hard!

Or you can just button up the first top buttons and leave the last button down untouched so the cowl will flare a bit over your shoulders:

p5c1

Is all up to you, yeah? You’re the boss

Now get yourself some Colinette Point 5 and make your own cowl. The best part is that you are done with this project in just 2 hours!!!

a p5c5 wias6p5c6 a3

Thanks, Adrienne, for modeling and for “co-designing” this seed stitch cowl!

And for you, my dear reader, thanks for visiting once again and untill the next entry!

p5c2


Free Pattern: Long Fingerless Glove “Adrienne”

December 18, 2007

Adrienne15

I was planning on writing a pdf.file for the pattern and to make some nice photographs on these long scalloped gloves but alas, I am running out of time.

Several people have been asking me to please please post the pattern soon because it would make such a nice Christmas gift.

Pdf.file will follow soon, for now you will have to do with this posting, aight?

Long Fingerless Glove “Adrienne”

scallloped long version 2

This long fingerless glove is named after a beautiful and tall woman called Adrienne, who happens to be my friend!

First I will give you sort of a picture tutorial and the entire pattern is written out further down this page.

In this pattern you need to know how to increase by knitting in front and back of a stitch (kfb). You also need to know the slip slip knit decrease (ssk) and the knit two together decrease (k2tog).

Adrienne2

If you do not know how to do this please go to knittinghelp.com and watch Amy Finlay’s video tutorials on Kfb, ssk and k2tog.

This pattern contains a 8 row repeat stitch which give you 7 scalloped purl ridges. The front side of the glove is scalloped, the back side contains simply stockinette stitch.

The first and last stitch are always knit in stockinette stitch which will make your life easier when you seam later on.

Adrienne1

After you are done with the knitting part you will have to seam the glove, using the mattrass stitch technique. If you don’t know how to seam, go to knittinghelp.com and watch Amy Finlay’s excellent video tutorial on the mattress stitch. Scroll down her page untill you hit the “finishing” section and click on the mattress stitch!

Start Seaming down from the top for about 2.5 inches:

Adrienne3

Then start seaming up from the bottom for about 8 inches untill you have a thumb opening left of about 1.25 – 1.50 inches:

Adrienne4 Adrienne5 Adrienne6 Adrienne7

Turn the glove inside out and weave in the ends.
Adrienne8

In the end you should have a nice and neat seam:
Adrienne9

And if all went well, your glove should look something like this:
Adrienne10 Adrienne11

I particularly like the scallop right on top of the glove. It is almost as if it “protects” your fingers by wrapping it in the scallop! And it looks so feminine on!
Adrienne12

And now for the pattern!

Again, the pdf will follow shortly, for now you will have to do with this:

Materials
Yarn: Manos Silk Blend, dk weight, 150 yards. Any dk yarn will do as long as you have about 140-150 yards of yarn.

Needle Size 7 or size to obtain gauge! I am a very tight knitter so you might want to consider a different needle size!
Darning needle for seaming.

Gauge:
4.5 st and 6 rows in = 1” in St st
Be sure to check your gauge, okay?

Size: Length: approx. 12”
Width (when not seamed): approx. 6.5”

This pattern is knitted flat from the top down. The first and last stitch are always knit in stockinette stitch to make your life easier when you need to seam.

NOTE: The SSK in this pattern is done as follows: Slip knitwise, Slip knitwise , and then knit both stitches together into the back loops.

RIGHT HAND GLOVE

Cast on 36 stitches and make sure you have a 10 inch tail for seaming.

Step 1: The top part
1) RS: Knit 25, (k1, p1) untill the last stitch, now knit that last stitch.
2) WS: Purl 1, (k1, p1) 5x, knit 24, purl 1.
3) Repeat Row 1
4) Repeat Row 2
5) knit 1, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, knit 11.
6) Purl all stitches

Step 2: The actual pattern

7) Knit all stitches
8 ) Purl all stitches
9) Knit 1, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, knit 11
10) Purl 11, Knit 24, Purl1

11) Knit all stitches
12) Purl all stitches
13) Knit 1, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, knit 11
14) Purl

Now Repeat row 7 to row 14 another for another 6 times! In the end you should have 7 purl ridges in your pattern.

Step 3: Last part of the glove and ribbing

15) Knit all stitches
16) Purl all stitches
17) Knit 1, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, knit 11
18) Purl all stitches
19) K1, P1 ribbing accross.
Repeat row 19 for 5 times more.
Bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. Leave an 18 inch tail.

Now seam your glove!

LEFT HAND GLOVE

Cast on 36 stitches and make sure you have a 10 inch tail for seaming.

Step 1: The top part

1) RS: (knit 1, purl 1) 5x, knit 1, knit 25
2) WS: p1, k24, p1, (k1, p1)5x
3) Repeat row 1
4) Repeat row 2
5) K11, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, k1
6) Purl all stitches

Step 2: The actual pattern

7) Knit all stitches
8 ) Purl all stitches
9) K11, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, k1
10) P1, k24, p11

11) Knit all stitches
12) Purl all stitches
13) K11, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, k1
14) Purl all stitches

Now Repeat row 7 to row 14 for another 6 times! In the end you should have 7 purl ridges in your pattern.

Step 3: Last part of the glove and ribbing

15) Knit all stitches
16) Purl all stitches
17) K11, (kfb)4x, (ssk)4x, (k2tog)4x, (kfb)4x, k1
18) Purl
19) K1, P1 ribbing accross.
Repeat row 19 for 5 times more.
Bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. Leave an 18 inch tail.

Now seam your glove!

Enjoy knitting this glove and enjoy wearing it!

Thank you for reading and untill the next entry…


Free Pattern: Double Dayflower Scarf

October 17, 2007

Double-Dayflower2 Double-Dayflower3 Double-Dayflower1

A few months after I first learned how to do a knit stitch and a purl stitch, I was ready to venture out to lace. I was in awe of those knitters who could do lace and would browse the knitting forums and lurk in every thread were lace was discussed.

One day, I stumbled across a lace thread over at Knittinghelp.com. The knitters were discussing a lace pattern called “Dayflower” and one knitter in particular wanted to double this pattern but did know how to.

Other knitters came to the rescue and at the end of the thread somebody wrote out the whole 16 row repeat pattern and doubled it! I immediately copied the pattern and stared at it for many days.

There are knit two together (k2tog), slip slip knit (ssk), purl two together through backloop (p2tog tbl) and purl 3 together through back loop (p3tog tbl) and my word was I intimidated!

What the hell are these abbreviations and how to knit them??? I had not to fear because Amy Finlay from Knittinghelp.com has excellent videos on how to do those stitches!

So I took a deep breath, got me some Noro Silk Garden colorway 205 / colorway 218 and some Addi Circulairs # 9 and bravely casted on…

Colorway 205
Double-Dayflower3

Colorway 218
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It was hard for me in the beginning… but I did not give up and diligently kept on going. And this was the result:

Double-Dayflower2a

I had so much fun knitting it that I also knit this pattern in Noro Silk garden # 84.

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I have had so many compliments on this scarf!

Double-Dayflower1a

Many thanks to the lace knitters over at Knittinghelp.com for writing out this pattern. And since it was posted for free, I made a pdf file for you to down load this Double Dayflower Pattern!

Double DayFlower

 

Have fun knitting!

Note added 10-23-07:

If you have never done lace before, maybe it is good to try the feather and fan scarf first…! If you are pretty confident you are ready for the Double Day Flower, go for it!

 


Picture Tutorial Fingerless Glove “Seattle”

August 8, 2007

Are you ready? Let’s go…

Seattle17

This blog is dedicated to the novice knitter and all knitters who are interested in learning new stuff. I am a novice knitter myself and by no means an authority on knitting whatsoever. I am just an enthusiastic little novice knitter who would like to share her adventures.

Yarn used in this picture tutorial: Rowan Cashsoft dk
Needle size: 3 – PLEASE NOTE THAT I AM A TIGHT KNITTER SO YOU MAY WANT TO USE A SMALLER NEEDLE TO OBTAIN GAUGE!
Gauge: 6 stitches to an inch. It is allright when you get 6.5 stitches to an inch. It’s only a fingerless glove…

Size:
Length approx. 7.5 – 8 inch
Width approx. 6 – 6.5 inch (before seaming)

To download the pattern click below:

Fingerless Glove Seattle (pdf file)

Step 1:
Cast on 42 sts. Make sure you have about a 15″ tail ( for seaming later on). Start with 6 row k1,p1 ribbing.

Step 2:
RS: Knit 1 row across
WS: Purl 1 row across
Seattle1 Seattle 2

Now look at your work. When facing RS , you will see two rows of KNITTED stitches. So this is your Right Side!
When facing WS you will see two rows of PURLED stitches.

STEP 3:
1) With RS facing you: k1, (k4, p4) 5 times, k1
2) With WS facing you: p1, (k4, p4) 5 times, p1
3) With RS facing you: k1, (k4, p4) 5 times, k1
4)With WS facing you: p1, (k4, p4) 5 times, p1

If all went well, this is what you are supposed to see on the RS of your work:
Seattle4

Now you are going to knit the pattern “off set”

5) With RS facing you: k1, (p4, k4) 5 times, k1
6) With WS facing you: p1, (p4, k4) 5 times, p1
7) With RS facing you: k1, (p4, k4) 5 times, k1
8 With WS facing you: k1, (p4, k4) 5 times, k1

Now this is what you are supposed to see on RS of work:
Seattle5

Row 1 to 8 form the pattern. Repeat 5 more times so in the end you will have 12 squares counted from top to bottom.
And you will have 10 squares counted from left to right:
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Notice that the outer border stitches (the very first and the very last ) are KNIT when RS if facing you. When WS is facing you the very first and the very last stitch are PURLED. Why is this? It will make the seaming later on much easier.

STEP 4:
With RS facing you: knit one row across
With WS facing you: purl one row across
This is what the RS of your work should look like:
Seattle7

And this is what the WS of your work should look like:
Seattle8

STEP 5:
Almost there! Make 4 rows of k1, p1 ribbing and bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. Make sure you leave a 10 inch tail when you cut off the yarn.

STEP 6:
Seam that glove!

If you don’t know how to seam, go to knittinghelp.com and watch Amy Finlay’s excellent video tutorial on the mattress stitch. Scroll down her page untill you hit the “finishing” section and click on the mattress stitch!

The BOTTOM of your glove are the first 6 ribbed rows, the TOP of your glove are the 4 ribbed rows.

Make sure that when you fold the glove in half that the Right Side is facing you!

Start seaming down from the top for about 2inches:
Seattle10

Now with the tail end at the bottom of the glove, start seaming up for about 4 inches. If all went well, you should have an opening for your thumb that is about 1 1/4 inches wide.
Seattle11 Seattle12 Seattle14 Seattle13

It is all up to you where and how big exactly you want that thumb opening to be.

Weave in ends.
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Enjoy!
Seattle16 Seattle17 Seattle18

Please know that making a picture tutorial takes up a lot of hrs!

Enjoy and you’re welcome!


Picture Tutorial Fingerless Glove Emanelle

July 10, 2007

Some time ago now, I promised to post a picture tutorial of Fingerless Glove Emanelle. I was procrastinating because first of all it is a whole lot of work to get this done and secondly I didn’t think anybody would care, really.

That wasn't too hard, now was it?

But then knitter Chloe left me a message asking me when I was going to post Emanelle’s picture tutorial… and I was like, hey, somebody does care.
Small Yellow Flowers

So here goes, Chloe, especially for you, your granddaughters, and all other knitters who are interested…

Click here to download the pattern Emanelle.

For all entries on Emanelle, scroll down to the bottom of this post.

This blog is dedicated to the novice knitter and all knitters who are interested in learning new stuff. I am a novice knitter myself and by no means an authority on knitting whatsoever. I am just an enthusiastic little novice knitter who would like to share her adventures.

In this entry you will find:

  1. Some very quick Cable Basics
  2. Plaited Cables
  3. A step by step picture tutorial on Emanelle

Some very quick Cable Basics

Have you seen my first little tutorial on Cable Basics? If not please click here before continue reading.

In my first tutorial, we touched cables when holding your cable needle in front of your work.

Hold in Front

Now we are going to see what happens when we hold the cable needle in the back of your work

When the patterns says: “Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave at back, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle” this is what you have to do:

Slip 3 stitches and leave at back:
Hold in Back

Leave your cable needle at the back of your work, ignore it and just knit the next three stitches. After you did that you are going to knit those 3 “ignored stitches” from your calbe needle. By doing this you are actually twisting stitches

Knit from cable needle

This last step feels weird at first but keep on going and soon enough you will see that you have made your first twist!
Right Slanting Twist

Now put your cable needle aside, cruise for a bit untill it is time to twist again and this is what you will see:

Two Right Slanting Twists

What is the difference between holding your cable needle in the front of your work and holding your needle in the back of your work, you may wonder? Take a look at this:

The first photo shows what happens when you hold your needle in front of your work, the second photo shows what happens when you hold your needle in the back of your work:

yay a twist Right Slanting Twist

Cable Needle in front creates a left slanting twist.
Cable Needle in back creates a right slanting twist.

For more cable tutorials go to:

Knittinghelp.com and watch Amy Finlay’s excellent tutorial video on cables!
You will find it in the “Advanced Technique” tab and then go to “decorative stitches”. I learned how to do cables from Amy’s video.

Plaited Cables

Plaited Cables are merely a combination of right slanting and left slanting twists. This creates a cable which looks like it is braided. It may look difficult at first, but fear not, it is actually very easy…

See those 9 centre knit stitches which are situated in a field of purl stitches? Those centre 9 stitches are our window of Plaited Cable opportunity.
9 stitches

When the patterns says: Slip 3 st onto cable needle and leave at back, knit 3, and then knit 3 stiches from cable needle, this is what it will produce:
Right Slanting

After this, you will not need your cable needles for like 3 rows:
Cruisin

Now when the patterns says: Knit 3, slip 3 on cable needle and leave at front, knit 3 and then knit 3 from cable needle, this is what it will produce:
Left Slanting

So this is the base of your plaited cable! If you continue in the pattern, in the end you will have a beautiful braid:
Braided Cable! YAY!

Picture Tutorial on Emanelle

Click here to download the pattern. This little fingerless glove is knitted flat, and then later on seamed on the side.

Step 1: Start with 6 rows of ribbing
Step 1 Ribbing

Step 2: Plaited Fun Commences!
Step 2 Plaited Fun Commences!

This is what the back of your work will look like:
Back of your Work

See your work grow and grow:

See your work growAnd grow even more

Untill it is time to start your final 4 row ribbing and bind off:
Step 4 Ready for Seaming!

Last step is seaming the glove! Start seaming from the top down. Remember when you ribbed for 4 rows? That is your top. So start there. If you don’t know how to seam, go to knittinghelp.com and watch Amy Finlay’s excellent video tutorial on the mattress stitch. Scroll down her page untill you hit the “finishing” section and click on the mattress stitch!
Start seaming from the top

Then from the bottom up:
Finally start seaming from the bottomWatch the thumbhole get smallerAnd even smaller

Finally, you weave in the ends and your glove is done!
Time to weave in the ends

That wasn't too hard, now was it?

Enjoy…

All Entries on Emanelle:

I want it to last for an Eternity

Win these luxurious fingerless gloves

Winners of Deneadin and Emanelle

Free pattern Fingerless Glove Emanelle